Bariloche - Mendoza

After many hours in the bus and at the bus station we arrived tired in Bariloche (Argentina). The city is beautifully situated on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi and is surrounded by snow-dusted mountains. The area reminds us to St. Moritz in Switzerland. We almost got homesick, but just almost. We rented mountainbikes and rode along the lake. It was beautiful, however the crazy argentin drivers made it dangerous for us. Here you can see, many Italian emegrated to Argentina.

The next day we started our multi-day trekking trip. This time we enjoyed beautiful weather.


The 4 hours walk was exhausting. The trail went over rough and smooth mountains up and down. The view though was awesome and soon we forgot our pain. The next day we had to climp the steep slope at Refugio "Frey" up again which we yesterday with an efford descended. At the top we redecended into the next valley. The valley "Rucaco" showed its beauty with the colourful landscape. However, soon the next ascent to the next pass was due. After 6 hours walking we could enjoy a fresh bath in the ice-cold lagoon next to Refugio "Jakob". Next day, we decided to return to Bariloche because the next part is not marked and includes some rockclimbing. Therefore we hiked 5 hours down the diversified valley along the river, through color changing forests, bamboo and "calafate" bushes. After 18 km (12miles) we expected the bus in vain. Thanks our small spanish-knowledge, we could convince a truck driver to give us a lift back to the town. Otherwise we would have to walk another 2-3 hours to the next busstation.

From Bariloche we headed to San Martin de los Andes along the route "Siete Lagos" (Seven Lakes). This trip took us to one of the most beautiful landscape in Patagonia so far. In SM de los Andes we climed to a view point in a Mapuche Reservat, were we enjoyed the view and reading.

With a rental car we headed to Junin de los Andes along the lake "Huechulafquer" into the national park "Lanin". At 3776m (12587 feet), snowcapped Volcan Lanin is the dominating centerpiece of tranquil Parque Nacional Lanin. Clouds orbited around the peak. It looked like the vulcan is wearing a chinese hat.

For Simones Birthday we headed to Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina. What a surprise. By public transportation we took of to a bodega (winery) for wine tasting. After some detours we finally managed to get to the winery. The guided tour was interesting but we were looking forward to the tasting though. However we only got one glass (!?) of the winerys cheapest wine. Luckely it was a good one at least.

For Simones birthday we treated ourselfs with a delicious dinner. We have had one of the best steaks/filet ever. Of course a good bottle of argentines wine was not missing.

Next day we hit the road again with a rental car. Uspallata lies in an exceptionally beautiful valley surrounded by polychrome mountains which served as a location for the Brad Pitt epic "Seven Years in Tibet".

Close to the chilean boarder lies one of Argentina's most striking wonders. Situated 2720m (9067 feet) above sea level, Puente del Inca is a natural stone bridge spanning the Rio Mendoza. Underneath it, rock walls and the ruins of an old spa are stained yellow by warm, sulfurous thermal springs. The sudden snowfall caused surprise. Fortunately the weather back in Uspallata was georgeous again.

For the return we took the "Camino del Año", a dirt road sneaks with 365 curves over the mountains. From the Mirador we enjoyed the awesome view to the 6962m (23,207 feet) high Cerro Aconcagua (see on picture; left). It is the Western Hemisphere's highest summit.

Soon we are catching a night bus to Cordoba, where we consider to take spanish classes for another month.

Puerto Natales - Temuco

Of course, it was raining when we brought our luggage to the Navimag Ferry. However the sun came out when we boarded the Navimag Ferry. Is this a good sign or not? The Ferry leaves Puerto Natales, bound for Puerto Montt through the Patagonien channels. We had a spectators of a wild landscape where the silence and the immensity of evergreen forest, glaciers and mountains with eternal snows combine with the exotic marine fauna, telling of the divinity of nature.


In our cabin where a more than 70 years old chilean couple and therefore we could sleep on the upper beds. This gave us the opportunity to look out the window. Here we could see the channels and animals, like horses, cows and sheep standing very close to each other. We were visiting places such as Puerto Edén, where the heritage of the aboriginal forefathers can still be recognised. To travel from Puerto Chacabuco to the northern zone of Patagonia, to be captivated by the beauty of the Los Lagos Region and the island of Chiloérsity. The first day was a little rainy but on the other hand it was mystic and the perfect weather for the chilen fjords.

It was almost dark when we passed a really small part of the fiords (Angosta Ingles) which was only 80 m (190 feets) wide. We stopped shortly in Puerto Eden. Which is a small village and its main activity is fishing. It is home to the last (Kawésqar) Indians. The next stop was at the "XII" glacier, which is one of the biggest in Patagonia. We spent some time in the cockpit, where people always were welcome.

In the second night we went out to the rough sea. We were happy, that we could sleep. We woke up next morning by beatiful blue sky. However we saw a lot of white faces around. A woman threw up from the upper deck and Geraldine and Nicolas, a swiss couple which we met on the ferry, where on the lower deck. They were lucky, that the women missed them. We spent a lot of time outside by beatuiful weather. The only time we were inside was when the plenty of food was served. This four days were absolutly great.

We, also Geraldine and Nicolas took a bus from Puerto Montt to Temuco in the nord and we spent a night there. Next day we rented a VW Fox. It was amazing how much stuff we could put in this car. 4 passangers; 4 big packpacker and 5 small packpacker, not bad.

In Pucon, where the 2847m (9490 feet) high activ vulcan Villarrica is located we organised our planned hiking trip up to its top. Actually Geraldine and Nicolas organised it. They gave the office a Swiss Mountaneer card and sad they are Swiss Mountain Guides. We argued a little bit and finally got the permit for the hike without expensive guides. Early in the morning we walked on steadly upwards through lava fields and later through snow to the top. We carried iceaxes, helmed and crampons with us. But we didn't have to use it, because of beautiful weather. It took us 3 1/2 hours to get to the top, the terrain was relativly easy. We think this tours with guides are only that they can rip of tourists. On the other hand we saw some tourists, which definately needed a guide. One ot them felt almost into the crater. The view was absolutely breathtaking. But from the active crater came some stinky and nippier smoke. We had a lot of fun sliding down on the snow. We were lucky we got up early. There were so many tourist on the way up it was amasing. In the evening we enjoyd a baths in the 35 to 40 degrees Celcius (95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit) warm pools in the natural therms.

By sunny weather we drove through the beautiful Conguillio National Park with its activ Vulcan "Llaima" (3125m; 10041 feet). Here you can find the funny looking araucania trees, which are only growing in Chile. After a nice hiking trip (Sierra Nevada) we went further to La Suizandina (Hostel), because the camping places here were very expencive.

La Suizandina is a hostel which was founded from a swiss couple 8 years ago. Really amazing what they did in this few years. Great jop. (www.suizandina.com) We had a huge swiss breakfast with real bred. Afterwards we headed for our trip to the top of the Vulcano "Lonquimay" (2726m - 9086 feet). The ascent up to the top was exhausting because of the Lapilli (small loose vulcano stones). Our "Swiss Mountain Guide" Geraldine brought us to the top after 5 1/2 hours. We had a beautiul view up there, a 360 degrees round sight. We were told, that we had one of the best days. Next day, some people couldn't reach the top because of exhaustion and strong wind. In the evening we enjoyed a barbeque with good wine. Next day we ate some raclet (Swiss cheese dish). This weekend was a little more expensive then our budget tolerates, but it was it worth.

In Temuco we sad goodby to Geraldine und Nicolas at 22.00 o'clock. They went further with the train to Santiago. We had to wait at the busterminal till our bus arrived at 3 o'clock in the morning. But we are looking forward to Bariloche, Argentina, where good argentine wine and steakes are waiting for us.

Hasta luego.