Puerto Natales - Temuco

Of course, it was raining when we brought our luggage to the Navimag Ferry. However the sun came out when we boarded the Navimag Ferry. Is this a good sign or not? The Ferry leaves Puerto Natales, bound for Puerto Montt through the Patagonien channels. We had a spectators of a wild landscape where the silence and the immensity of evergreen forest, glaciers and mountains with eternal snows combine with the exotic marine fauna, telling of the divinity of nature.


In our cabin where a more than 70 years old chilean couple and therefore we could sleep on the upper beds. This gave us the opportunity to look out the window. Here we could see the channels and animals, like horses, cows and sheep standing very close to each other. We were visiting places such as Puerto Edén, where the heritage of the aboriginal forefathers can still be recognised. To travel from Puerto Chacabuco to the northern zone of Patagonia, to be captivated by the beauty of the Los Lagos Region and the island of Chiloérsity. The first day was a little rainy but on the other hand it was mystic and the perfect weather for the chilen fjords.

It was almost dark when we passed a really small part of the fiords (Angosta Ingles) which was only 80 m (190 feets) wide. We stopped shortly in Puerto Eden. Which is a small village and its main activity is fishing. It is home to the last (Kawésqar) Indians. The next stop was at the "XII" glacier, which is one of the biggest in Patagonia. We spent some time in the cockpit, where people always were welcome.

In the second night we went out to the rough sea. We were happy, that we could sleep. We woke up next morning by beatiful blue sky. However we saw a lot of white faces around. A woman threw up from the upper deck and Geraldine and Nicolas, a swiss couple which we met on the ferry, where on the lower deck. They were lucky, that the women missed them. We spent a lot of time outside by beatuiful weather. The only time we were inside was when the plenty of food was served. This four days were absolutly great.

We, also Geraldine and Nicolas took a bus from Puerto Montt to Temuco in the nord and we spent a night there. Next day we rented a VW Fox. It was amazing how much stuff we could put in this car. 4 passangers; 4 big packpacker and 5 small packpacker, not bad.

In Pucon, where the 2847m (9490 feet) high activ vulcan Villarrica is located we organised our planned hiking trip up to its top. Actually Geraldine and Nicolas organised it. They gave the office a Swiss Mountaneer card and sad they are Swiss Mountain Guides. We argued a little bit and finally got the permit for the hike without expensive guides. Early in the morning we walked on steadly upwards through lava fields and later through snow to the top. We carried iceaxes, helmed and crampons with us. But we didn't have to use it, because of beautiful weather. It took us 3 1/2 hours to get to the top, the terrain was relativly easy. We think this tours with guides are only that they can rip of tourists. On the other hand we saw some tourists, which definately needed a guide. One ot them felt almost into the crater. The view was absolutely breathtaking. But from the active crater came some stinky and nippier smoke. We had a lot of fun sliding down on the snow. We were lucky we got up early. There were so many tourist on the way up it was amasing. In the evening we enjoyd a baths in the 35 to 40 degrees Celcius (95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit) warm pools in the natural therms.

By sunny weather we drove through the beautiful Conguillio National Park with its activ Vulcan "Llaima" (3125m; 10041 feet). Here you can find the funny looking araucania trees, which are only growing in Chile. After a nice hiking trip (Sierra Nevada) we went further to La Suizandina (Hostel), because the camping places here were very expencive.

La Suizandina is a hostel which was founded from a swiss couple 8 years ago. Really amazing what they did in this few years. Great jop. (www.suizandina.com) We had a huge swiss breakfast with real bred. Afterwards we headed for our trip to the top of the Vulcano "Lonquimay" (2726m - 9086 feet). The ascent up to the top was exhausting because of the Lapilli (small loose vulcano stones). Our "Swiss Mountain Guide" Geraldine brought us to the top after 5 1/2 hours. We had a beautiul view up there, a 360 degrees round sight. We were told, that we had one of the best days. Next day, some people couldn't reach the top because of exhaustion and strong wind. In the evening we enjoyed a barbeque with good wine. Next day we ate some raclet (Swiss cheese dish). This weekend was a little more expensive then our budget tolerates, but it was it worth.

In Temuco we sad goodby to Geraldine und Nicolas at 22.00 o'clock. They went further with the train to Santiago. We had to wait at the busterminal till our bus arrived at 3 o'clock in the morning. But we are looking forward to Bariloche, Argentina, where good argentine wine and steakes are waiting for us.

Hasta luego.